Eos-1d Mark Iv

printing plate to take advantage of digital negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 5 / 7

Part 5 / 7 – The digital negative.

Introduction.

When people involved in the replacement process began with printing digital negatives, first I am fully ignored the new trend, "be so focused on the sensitometric tests, densitometers, pyro stain and so on. Although all learning which proved extremely useful in the computer age also, Digital gives us a greater consistency and better results in less time (in addition to other benefits). Now print from digital files only work (except age, of course) directly from a digital camera. Landing heavy cameras to complete (which I was an avid user of many years) has also greatly improved the quality of my work and it is easier to capture the images you want whenever I want. When I print a picture of age (I a large archive of 8×10 "negative in the camera), I usually contact printing from the original negative, unless is an important image, I think I'm going to print again in the future. In this case, I prefer to scan (I use a Microtek scanner full) and any way to prepare a digital negative.

I Whether you work or traditional digital or both. I am interested in producing the best images possible, long term and for me, a mixture of digital and traditional, is what works.

That said, let's see how produce a digital negative that can compete with the traditional. Firstly, the RAW file should be good. If you're shooting digital, which means a digital camera to first class (that is to say, a full-frame sensor Canon EOS 5D is the least) or traditional tests negative scanner good quality software. I can use 16-bit mode in Vuescan. If the file from your digital camera or scanned negatives are not necessary resolution to produce a good negative, and you really want to impress, I recommend you pop with specialized software such as Genuine Fractals PrintPro onOne (BenVista PhotoZoom Pro is also good). Note that, of course, it is a compromise, however, failed to produce impressions of good for small files. Many of my clients are not owners of digital cameras or scanners and audio professionals often give me support but files low resolution. Speaking of useful utilities for working with digital files, I would like to mention the exposure of Alien Skin. This Photoshop plug-in own "emulate" the appearance of many traditional film (HP5, Tri-X, etc.), including full control of cereals and also a mixer channel to convert B & W also has many other features. I am the first to recognize that the transition from traditional film to digital and then with a filter to imitate … film may seem absurd, but as I said at the end of the day the results. Me do not think one has to invest in other software to do a good job, but Viveza 2 (Nik Software), is beautiful to adjust the contrast localized (and the regulator of the new structure is better to buy this filter only).

The latest software version, of course, is your own ability to use Photoshop to make your pictures look great. This goes far beyond the scope of this article, just keep in mind that you need an image histogram with at least one good (no difference between the values of the sample) and a lot of shadow detail (sorry to say this because almost always when I get to digital files my clients, the shadows are too thin). Here's an old trick little in Photoshop to give your image more "presence" in the media tones and shadows. Add a picture. Duplicate the layer. Gaussian blur the new layer until it is out of focus (not much, for example, 10/15 pixels for a 8×10 "image 400dpi). Double-click the layer to get the blur layer style window. Select Blend Mode: Multiply. opacity around 60% (which will play with this parameter more below). Go to the first two lines shaded gray on the bottom of the window. Alt-click (on a PC, I do not know about Mac) on the pointer is left white to separate the right and drag to the left as you want. Now drag a bit towards the left, a white pointer also keep an eye on developments Highlights. What we do here is to have multiplied the blurred image in the bottom layer in the midtones and shadows. Now click OK and window layer can be played around the 60% opacity that we put forward. Move the cursor around to see the difference. Use this technique with utmost restraint and, of course, we are introducing some fuzziness in the image.

Two last things on the digital workflow, before speaking curves of platinum. First, with digital negatives that we have the opportunity to improve the original image, with the culture, dodging, burning and so on, but can also improve a bit with some special effects. I recommend, but without the use of techniques digital special care and with restraint, ie without making drastic changes to the original image. After all, we work a process nearly two centuries certainly deserves our respect!

Secondly, platinum can print all photos, not necessarily. By By example, because of his extraordinary mandate, I am often asked the same print important documents. Or you can print reproductions of paintings, entirely computer-generated landscapes, such as those made with Vue or Terragen and so on. Endless possibilities and fun.

Photoshop and curves.

You must be staggered corner. In Photoshop, create a new image 4×5 "360 dpi (the resolution is the recommended resolution printing of all our digital files). Threshold create six columns and nine rows 54 seats. number of 00, 02, 04 … … 98, 100 (three seats will not be used). Then fill each square with black on the density, respectively, or 0% (white), 2% (light gray) to black (100%). If Please check with the pipette in Photoshop that truly reflect the numbers given density, then reverse and return the image. Now Put a sheet of 8.5 x11 OHP "pictorial in the printer to print the corner. Make a new image resolution more Letter same size as the corner and press on the corner in the upper left corner as a new layer that you do not, for printing in the middle of the road pictorial way, you can save space for further testing.

For years on the printer used to print my negatives was an Epson R1800 Ink UltraChrome, so that its configuration can vary depending on the printer you have, but if you use Epson UltraChrome be very similar to the mine. I recently upgraded to an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 without any change in my corner. With Epson printers and Windows Vista is the procedure: select Edit / Color settings and notification settings. In my case, gray gamma is 2.2, please note that if you do the test with gamma, and change in the future will be a difference. Click on File / Print Preview and make sure your settings match mine, in particular, Color Management> Print> Documentation> Gray Gamma 2.2 Profile (whenever you print a negative check that this configuration is the same as that used for printing the corner). I use the profile to print pictorial PhotoRPM Epson Premium Glossy Paper (Epson upload their profiles if you have not yet). Note: Some people print digital negatives with a dominant color (ie orange, brown, etc.) to take advantage of the qualities actinic UV light, ie have more density. For me it's what is needed and not only complicates the development of negative Pyro.

Click OK and the Epson panel ensure that all parties, namely Premium glossy photo paper, photo quality RPM, etc. If you do not an Epson printer, try the best photo quality settings on glossy paper your printer. Also make sure that color management is obviously MIC. After printing the first area can duplicate the layer, move to another quadrant in the image in letter format, remove the first layer has copy and insert the same sheet of film to print the corner to change the printer settings again, for example, I have different profiles glossy on my computer and I tried all different settings, such as photos, etc. Our goal is to get PhotoRPM density Maximum printer is capable. If you have a calibrated densitometer and a corner, you can check the density. In my case, printing in black Pictorial pure I have the same density as the No. 14 corner in my corner calibration 21-step Stouffer. Step # 14 is a density of 2.00 which is a lot. If you do not have a densitometer can do a quick test video: in normal light conditions to set the corner in the black text written on the back a pictorial envelope should not be able to see the text in all places to # 00-10, and a little too square # 12.

After printing the corner itself – if you want – up to four times (of course you should take note of the parameters maybe they scored on the road itself Pictorial with a marker) go to layer a bit of paper and make a first impression.

If you have built your UV unit similar to mine, the printing time should be about 4 minutes. Brush the paper with pure palladium and a decrease of 2.5% Na2 and expose the blade this time (as has been said that if you want normalize your print with a decrease of 5% Na2 can do now and do not change it later). Develop, clear, wash and dry and you're ready to assess his first impression. "The procedure is very simple: Advice on printing the first place is not pure white and note its number, the same for the first which is not pure black. What are our limits to the preparation of images, or in terms of system domain, it is the area IX and I. These Both regions are limits as indicated, but please note that you must change the parts of a stoppage for more details Useful printing (Eg, Zone VIII and Zone II, the lightest and darkest areas of the order of texture). To easily find these areas, usually cut a corner of the print and punch two holes, one in black brush strokes and the other in the clear document. Then go on the boxes to compare densities. By Please do so in normal lighting conditions, not under a strong light to see better.

In my case, and we hope that a similarly in their tests, I = Area IX ~ 8 / 9%, and the I = ~ 78% with an exposure of 4 minutes. Why am I happy with these results. Because I have several places pure black and pure white above and below this range, which means that my time is correct and my opponent. If you not, for example, if space is 0% not white, but slightly darker than the paper outside brushing means (assuming that printing is allowed, too) that your time is too long (or there is a printing problem namely, its refusal is not sufficient density). Conversely, if no places darkest are not as black as brushing borders of their time is too short. Especially pure palladium with beatings must be actual black ink. Bottom panel light, if they are not. If you have built the unit of exposure as suggested, may increase or decrease the LED panel to correct the calendar, taking care to stay around four minutes (remember that if you double the distance, the light received is four times less). Only stopping for more than eight minutes and two stops 16 and so on, and it is not convenient when printing companies. Unlike maintenance of UV lamps too close to the paper would not be practical time (to avoid, etc.) and probably show streaks of tubes in the plan.

I stick test by pure palladium for the moment. Of course, if you decide to opt for a classical solution of 50/50 with platinum, for example, will again the test with this mixture (as if you are printing with different roles).

Now, back to Photoshop to create their own printing curve. Send your favorite photo into a grayscale landscape, a portrait in the key, everything goes well, lots of details in shadow and highlight, as is my lake to the next page, for example. Go to the photo dropper, for example, in the shadows where they always want good detail. Photoshop is capable indicate a value of 80% or more. But control of the printing block can see that 80% will be printed in almost pure black, so this value must be adjusted. Just shows to go well detailed, the reading will be very low, for example, 30%, as you know your zone VII is approximately 10%. Step Next is to apply a curve on the image to fit the curve of palladium in the darkroom. Create an adjustment layer curve further. Basically as a starting point that you just entered the middle of the curve, which is obviously a straight line (upper right, shadows, bottom left, shows) to start and get right, adding checkpoints to prevent soft. Keep the window open and click on curves the same constraints as before and notice the two values in the curve window, input and output. As you can see reading 30% is likely to become a change of 15% similar happened with shadows.

The curve is similar to a kind of S (do not move the control points the two peaks). The curve is evident that only a point of starting point. To edit your own curve just keep an eye on the corner and the other image, and little change in the points of the curve according to the corner. Basically, If, for example, has a picture of a beach and the sand falls in Zone V, you can first check the reference (the corner of print) and see that, for example, your Zone V is 30%. Ago Click on the eyedropper in the sand (make sure right click on the color picker and choose the reading means 5×5 PT) and check that the output is about 30% curves in the windows. Otherwise, the points change of the curve accordingly. Of course, if you have chosen a well balanced image, you do not do this for each image to print. This is a once and this will be its own curve. You must repeat the procedure for different mixtures of platinum and palladium, or when the paper or the evolution printer, or other contact printing process – but I prefer this approach rather than give different pt curves for PE, or by different printers on the market (could not anyway). This you will have to spend some time working on their own curve (s), but just think to in their hands: Ansel Adams was limited to spot shadow zone III or IV and to develop a space for decent VIII or IX. You, to a certain limit, you can put all the ten Areas near where you want! Stock reprint my area (both negative and Pt-Pd) every six months to ensure that my procedures are valid. For example, my corner is slightly darker now I printed the first year, probably due to aging UV lamps.

Now, when you're happy with your curve, click OK, then click again on the fourth icon in the Layers window and choose Invert. Finally, click Flip Canvas Horizontal reverse image and print on Pictorial in the same way that you have printed the corner. You can now print the negative as before and, if everything was done correctly, will almost certainly get an idea very similar to the screen. As mentioned previously, from now on all your printing palladium prints in the same period and the same contrast, always spend some time on the computer to get a good negative. Sometimes you can get an impression that is not what I wanted, because it does not look like the picture computer, for example, because the shadows are too thin. In this case, it is easy to go back to the computer and adjust the curve a little to give more details in the shadows. Then print the new negative. Post there is little control in the darkroom (because we print contrast as little as possible) is a new negative is almost always more practical. By course, please keep in mind that you are trying to match an image the light transmitted to your PC with a subject reflected light printing on watercolor paper that is obviously 100% mate. As indicated above, if you have a Pt-Pd process of printing high contrast, like money, for example, note the contrast here is lower, the shadows will be more light, the tonal scale is longer. If you like high contrast and striking images I think the platinum-palladium is not an appropriate medium.

Assuming that you meet your first impression, after drying and equipment, it is time to end the process, stains and Assembly which will be discussed in Part 6 / 7.

About the Author

Luca Paradisi has been an internationally collected artist and fine art printmaker for many years. For more fine art photography inspiration you can visit his web site at www.artblackandwhite.com where he shows his work which includes landscapes, still life, abstracts, and architectural.

What should I do – EOS-1D Mark IV and EOS-1Ds Mark III?

I know that the 1D Mark IV is more recent, but it is cheaper and has a low rate mega-pixels. The 1D Mark III is larger and more expensive. What is the best? Why is it better than the other? I can not see through the specification to know why their is a huge difference in price for an older product.

If I were you, I would go with 1D Mark IV. Fewer mega pixels, but ISO range of 100 to 12.800, Continuous AF Area sensor.Faster about to shoot 45 and take 10 fps HD video. Above all, you have money for another great lens. % Http: / / www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http 3A% 2F%%%% 2Fs 2Fwww.amazon.com 3DUTF8 3Fie% 3D0% 26x%% 26ref_ 255Fss 3Dnb% 26y% 3D0%%% keywords 25201d-2520mark 26field 3Dcanon %%%%%% 26url 2520iii 3Dsearch-alias 253Dphoto & tag = computer0bd-20 and linkCode = UR2 and camp = 1789 creative = 390957

Canon EOS 1D Mark IV – Manually Selecting an AF Point 1/13